Tony and I, and the Family, have recently come back from one perfect Holiday.
The two of us flew ahead, into COLOMBO via EMIRATES, to what was once the warmth of our childhood. And, like it often happens, there were ‘invites’ from relatives and friends, waiting. We got to taste the wares of CINNAMON GRAND’s, Nuga Gama, Lagoon, Cheers etc.
We had pre-planned a day-flight to JAFFNA, - the Island’s northern-most city - via EXPO Air CESSNA, with a dear friend ALOMA GAMAGE. Landing at PALALI, we headed for the PANNAI Causeway, then, tramped in blazing sun, the grounds of a rejuvenated old DUTCH FORT, sought blessings at St MARY’s Cathedral, fell for the enticing GRAND BAZAAR, supped with locals on a hearty serving of Rice, and curries, - on banana leaves - at MALAYAN Café’, drove thru the many by-roads, and grabbed a snooze at EXPO PAVILLION, before our late-evening return-flight.
Once all of the Family had arrived, we travelled to the illustrious MOUNT LAVINIA Hotel for the experience of their High-Tea, then Lunched in style at the renowned GALLE FACE Hotel. Afterwards, we set out in search of the Homes of our youth; Tony found particular joy in locating the last relic of his grand-parents’ - THE CROZIERS’ - 54-acre rubber property, the once stately GWENDALE. We made it a point of finding my old home in MARADANA and saw once again the steps we sat a-courting. We took the Family to the COLOMBO MUSEUM, and, some other places. And, as promised to the Grand-children, we hailed a bevy of TUK-TUK’s(3-wheelers) and took a white-knuckle ride around the streets of COLOMBO.
EXOTIC LANKA HOLIDAYS in conjunction with JETWING TRAVELS delivered a TOYOTA COASTER on Day ONE of our Tour. On board, National Guide SUBASH, and Driver NIMAL. The first would turn out to be brilliant, the second, efficient and considerate.
Quickly onto the SOUTHERN EXPRESSWAY via MAHARAGAMA, we swung into ‘new’ WELIPENNA for a thirst-quencher, and, two hours later drifted into the arms of the luxurious JETWING LIGHTHOUSE; the Pool was hard to resist.
Eventide saw us touring the well-maintained GALLE FORT. And very soon we were skipping along the sunset-dripped RAMPARTS, and winding-up with an entertaining Dinner at the RAMPARTS HOTEL.
Noisy alarm-clocks woke us, on Day TWO, for a 7am rendezvous with a WHALE WATCHING TOUR out of MIRISSA, a southern sea-coast village. We sighted Dolphins and one massive Blue Whale. But it had been too long a haul, the balance of the day’s plan was scrapped. Some did a walking-tour of GALLE Town, and found it exhilarating. But, the day’s hardships were forgotten when we feasted on a full suite of breath-taking culinary delights at JETWING LIGHTHOUSE. Later in Australia we all concluded that this Hotel had doubtlessly been the Best.
On Day THREE we headed for the GEOFFREY-BAWA designed, HERITANCE AHUNGALE, stopping at HIKKADUWA for a glass-bottom boat ride, at the MEMORIAL to the TSUNAMI victims, at a MOONSTONE Gem diggings, and AMBALANGODA’s Mask Factory. The afternoon excursion, to the TURTLE FARM brought joy to the youngsters. Later, we tasted Fish, Prawns and Steak at its best at AMAL RESTAURANT, Bentota,
On Day FOUR, after a great ‘HERITANCE’ breakfast we headed for BALAPITIYA, and soon were speeding down the MADHU RIVER thru mangroves, having a love-affair with a little pet monkey, getting our feet pedicured by fish and, being invited to witness the serenity of village life. That night as we sat by a sea-side Pool, bathed in moonlight, we were swept up high by music from a String Quartet.
Our Day FIVE destination was the chilly- 1900 meters-high NUWARA ELIYA, and the well regarded GRAND HOTEL. It was a tiresome 9-hour ride through RATNAPURA (Gems), PELMADULLA (Gems), and, high-country, HAPUTALE. The ELLA GRAND Hotel, with its spectacular views, heard our pleas and conjured-up a late Lunch. We slipped into the GRAND late that evening and were warmed by its elegant old-time charms A scrumptious Dinner awaited us.
Early, Day SIX, found Tony, Karen, Craig, Kira and myself on the patna-grassed rolling hills of HORTON PLAINS, and, the start of an ankle-damaging, oxygen-deprived trek to WORLD’S END. Hours later we stood on the ‘lip’, where 800-metres directly below nestled the town of BALANGODA. That afternoon having ‘adorned’ ourselves in Saris and sarongs we plucked Tea at the HERITANCE TEA FACTORY, Kandapola. The HEATHERSETT High-Tea we later enjoyed was divine.
Day SEVEN, was KIRA, our grand-daughter’s 15th Birthday, and, Guide SUBASH and Driver NIMAL had decorations all about. How thrilled KIRA was! On our way to KANDY –the Hill Capital - we took in the beauty and the geniality of the renowned MACKWOODS LOBUKELLIE Estate. That night AMAYA HILLS presented KIRA with a most delicious birthday cake, and a rousing ‘Happy Birthday’ from everybody present.
Day EIGHT had us at the PINNAWELLA Elephant Orphanage.. After ‘charming’ our way the children got to caress and feed the animals. Later, we watched in awe as 53 hulking beasts rushed down to the River for a ‘splash’. That evening we took in the solemn ‘poja’ - venerating with Lotus flowers – inside the magnificent DALADA MALIGAWA; a moving experience, And, later at night we dined high above the KANDY LAKE at SENANI Restaurant.
On Day NINE we made tracks for CHAAYA VILLAGE, in HABARANA, a north-central town, via the DAMBULLA Caves precinct, where the heat was unrelenting, humidity 98%! The Hotel pool was so inviting.
On Day TEN, after a substantial breakfast, of Western & mouth-watering Local food we left for a Tour of ANURADHAPURA , visiting several sites in the precinct of the ancient Buddhist city. We had a pre-arranged Lunch at the TISSAWEVA RESTHOUSE, and a meeting with Tony’s cousin, Ray Forbes, who resided in that city. With little time to rest we were taken for an ELEPHANT SAFARI thru jungle, and swamp; the brave ones rode bare-back.
We weren’t to know but Day ELEVEN would bring the ‘stand-out’ attraction of the Tour; the UNESCO-listed SIGIRYA, a 200 metre high rock monolith. The trek up the rock-face of the 5th Century capital of King Kasyapa, was arduous. The sides are adorned with frescos of bare-breasted women and on its crown are ruins of a palace complex. Then, at sundown we set off in uncovered jeeps to the MINNERIYA SANCTUARY, home of wild Elephants, and, we are not disappointed. A lone male charged our all-male jeep, which skided into a deep muddy ditch...miraculously they survived. Each male gives an exaggerated version of this episode!!!
Day TWELVE, and we tasted the very BEST Hoppers. And, while the Family relaxed, Tony & I set off to TRINCOMALEE. We took a speed boat to PIGEON Island, lunched on the BEST Prawns at NILAVELI BEACH HOTEL, and toured the TRINCOMALEE DUTCH FORT. We tasted perfect CURD (&treacle) and, were touched by our visit to the immaculately maintained ALLIED WAR CEMETERY.
Heavy in heart we were headed for NEGOMBO on Day THIRTEEN and JETWING SEA as our Tour was winding down. But, not before Craig, Michael and the Grand-children greeted Tony – the Cricket tragic – wearing the official Sri Lankan Team shirts. Along the way we detoured to a Village community where we rode bullock-carts, set off FIRE-CRACKERS, feasted on ROTI and the BEST EVER COCONUT SAMBOL, and took a boat-ride through a lake choked with Lotus. At the Hotel, we were presented with a beautiful sunset and acres of sea-sand to fly our kites. We frolicked in the sea, late into the night.
Finally, and tearfully, at the Airport’s edge, we said our Good-byes to SUBASH our Guide and NIMAL our Driver…they were brilliant. The Sinhala phrases that SUBASH taught the grand-children would become a part of OUR Family’s lexicon!
ps...do visit the links in green for a view of the Hotels
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